I love walking around (and picnicking in) London

I think walking is one of the best ways to see a city (other than bicycling, that is). Since the first time I traveled to London without my parents, I have been unable to resist the urge to walk until my legs ache. And not just that - I'm tired feeling. Today, Jay and I did just that.




We started off by taking a red double decker bus from Paddington to Liverpool station. In my opinion the public bus is a much better way to see a large part of the city than one of those tour buses. We went to the market on Brick Lane. It was a fun start to the day. Parts of the market are on the street and parts are housed in various buildings. Go hungry. There is so much freshly cooked food for sale and the aroma of curry and other spices is overwhelming. This is also the spot to look for vintage clothing.




Next we headed over to Soho so that Jay could check out some vintage guitars. There is a row of shops just west of Soho Garden.


A trip to London would not be complete without a visit to the British Museum. I am always awed by the Roman, Greek and Egyptian artifacts. But the museum is also a reminder of archaeology's role in colonialism.

There are so many great little parks and green spaces in London. Norfolk Square is located right across the street from our hotel, St. David's Hotel. For dinner, we opted for a picnic dinner in the square. We bought a bottle of rose, a baguette, cheese, hummus, and an apple. It was a beautiful evening. Of course, that was followed up by a trip to the pub.

Next stop, Gatwick Airport.

Back to London

After our last social outing with Jodi's family it was time for our biggest biking challenge yet, getting the bikes from Kesgrave to the London bike shop.

With our rental bikes on the train from Ipswich

We started out by fitting a bike into Kevin's car and another into Brian's. The took us to Ipswich train station where the real journey began. We had to load the bikes onto the train then take the train part of the way to London then due to track repairs transfer the bikes to a bus and ride about 45 mn to another train station then unload the bikes and catch another train to the Liverpool st station. From there we had to take the bikes on the crowded subway to downtown, London then ride them about 10 blocks to the bike rental station on the Thames. It was a grueling 4 hour ordeal which entailed hauling bikes up and down crowded escalators , stairs and through ticket gates then through crowds of people. Not really what I normally call fun but it was an adventure since it was all in England and our sightseeing was in full swing.

Next time we'll rent by the day locally. The bike trip through the country was a great adventure but dealing with the bikes through London and on public transport was the only thing about the trip that we'd do differently next time around.
After dropping of the bikes we caught the tube to our new rooms at the St. David's hotel. It was a great retro small weird old school London hotel. The people there were cool and there were great pub, restaurants, stores and such right next door. There was also a really nice park right out front. It was a great spot. Bukowski would have liked it.

We started on a few pints at the SawyerArms pub. I then went next door and bought a big Cuban cigar from the local deli/quickshop and fired it up. After thir own run in with public transport, Kevin and Brian showed up and we had a few with them . We then planned to meet up later after they checked into their room at another hotel.

We then had to get food. Jodi wanted Indian, after waking around for a while, we decided to eat at the one 50 feet from our room. It was definitely some of the best Indian food that I've ever had. By that time it was getting late and by the time we started drinking with Brian and Kevin. It was10:00. Then 11:00 was last call. Since we'd just started they wanted to keep drinking so we went via black cab to Picadilly Circus and made our way to their favorite spot, a three level disco, bar, live music place , O'Neal's, We drank there til two. We then got a cab ride home with a crazy London cab driver.



2:00am +
Bed time...

Jodi outside Sawyer Arms pub in London.

Traveling back to London via train.

A visit to the Romans ( in Colchester )

The supermarket had a bike parking area by the front door. Good Idea!

After we returned from our biking adventure we had the rest of the day to kill. Kevin, Brian's mate that's temporarily rooming with him, got in from work then Brian showed up shortly after. We biked to Tesco ( British for Walmart ) and bought some Guinness and John Smiths, went back to the flat drank and ordered Chinese. They left out my order so I had a hodge podge of appetizers for dinner.

This fine looking fellow was part of the dungeon
 display in the basement of the castle in Colchester Castle

The next morning Brian drove us to Colchester so that we could check out the historic castle and Roman ruins along with some shopping. Along the way we also checked out the ruins of an ancient church and had an excellent meal at the Purple Dog pub. Although it seemed to be right in the middle of an outdoor mall like shopping area the pub was 100's of yeas old as were many of the shops. I bought an excellent white dress shirt that actually fit. I must say that the professionalism of English department stores reminds me of American ones 30+ years ago. Our stores have gone to the dogs. Even the people at the local US JoS Banks or whatever it is couldn't sell me a properly fitting shirt.

Having a London Pride at the
Purple Dog pub in Colchester

St. Botolph's Priori

Jodi and her grandmother at the social club

Anyway, Jodi got some nice clothiers as well and it was back to Kesgrave for a trip to meet up with Jodis family at the Social Club. It was a sort of Moose Lodge looking hangout where mostly older people enjoyed drinking and socializing. Here respectable older people actually hang out with friends and drink in public without fear of scrutiny.

All of us at Kesgrave Social Club, a great spot.

We spotted an actual ancient Roman
 in the Kesgrave Social Club

After the Social club a handful of Jodi's family made the trek to Ipswich with us to a popular waterfront bar for a few enjoyable rounds of pints. Afterwards we stopped by a funky Lebanese take away joint for some gnarly lamb plates and grabbed a cab home. It wasn't quite the 4 star feast that we expected but after drinking it was all we needed.


Another night in England with the locals was at its end.

Seen as we toured the castle

Back to Kesgrave

We woke up at the Kings Head and went downstairs for breakfast. I had some great local sausages an egg, a bowl of Alpen along with some very good multigrain toast with black currant jelly. We checked out and bought wine bread and cheese ecttt for a picnic on our bike travel trough Woodbridge on our way to Kesgesve.

Every pub advertised events to celebrate the Queens Jubilee

We got Jodi one last expresso shot and hit the road. Along the way we passed some nice free range chicken and hog farms along with some national campground, biking and hiking areas. We biked along untill we we got to downtown Woodbridge, then found another Kings Head pub and had another pint.

We then headed out of town toward our final biking destination Kesgrave. As soon as we got to the edge of town we came upon their rural inter city bike path where we biked through some really interesting English forest and before we knew it we were near Brian's flat. We stopped and had a fancy wine cheese fruit and bread picnic in a field a block or so then biked a 100 yards or so and our grand biking adventure was over.

My fully loaded rental bike at the end of the journey

I was about ready for a nap after humping the bike with 50 or 60 pounds strapped to the back through the back roads of Suffolk for 3 days. The only real downside was a nasty allergy attack after the ride. The unseasonably warm year gave the area a pollen spike that was reminiscent of the pollen heavy spring that we had in the states this year.

As usual, humorous vending machines
are often spotted in pub toilets

Resting after a ride

Taken from a bridge as we entered Woodbridge.
There are plenty of rotting boats along this part of the coast.
It reminds me of riding through small SC towns where most of the old is rotting.
One difference in England there seem to be many less empty, dilapidated building.

Wine in plastic cups for a picnic in Kesgrave.

Layers of history in Colchester

St. Botolph's Priori

St. Botolph's Priori

the Roman wall

We headed out of Suffolk today for a quick trip to Colchester in Essex. Colchester is England's oldest recorded town. We explored the towns history with a visit to St. Botolph's Priori and Colchester Castle and did a little shopping in the town center. The Roman Wall that encircles the town, like the castle and Priori, shows the layers of history, with the Roman wall layered with bricks from across time periods.

Colchester Castle

The castle, owned by English Heritage, has a nice archaeology exhibit. Archaeology shows over 3,000 years of history. The area was a Celtic settlement before the Roman conquest. The exhibit uses material culture to trace the history from the Saxon, Viking, and Medieval eras.

St. Botolph's Priori is an Augustinian monastery established about 1100. It is an impressive example of early Norman architecture, built in flint and reused Roman brick. The circular pillars and round arches are massive. It was destroyed in 1648.

Jay at St. Botolph's Prior

The Purple Dog

These sites surround Colchester's town center making it a great place to shop, eat and, of course, have a pint. We stopped in The Purple Dog for lunch. I had a delicious falafel wrap and a pint of Crouch Vale Brewers Gold.

Tomorrow we head back to London.

It's another sunny day in England

leaving Orford

Rendlesham Forest

The weather is beautiful. It couldn't be better. I only wish I had packed differently. We (Jay) hauled rain gear and cold-weather clothing all over the countryside and there hasn't been a cloud in sight.


Today, we had a nice English breakfast at the King's Head. We picked up the makings for a picnic (I had an espresso) and headed on to Woodbridge. It was a quick cycle through Rendlesham Forest (known for its UFO sightings).

heading into Woodbridge

streets of Woodbridge

We pedaled through the streets of Woodbridge, window shopping.  We stopped in The King's Head for a pint. I had Adnam's Jubilee Ale, an ale celebrating the Queen's Diamond Jubilee.

The King's Head in Woodbridge

Adnam's Diamond Ale

Then we pedaled on toward my cousin Brian's flat in Kesgrave, stopping for a picnic lunch on the way. The bread and cheese here is delicious. Today, we had local goat cheese, mini French baguettes, nutella, an apple and a pear, cherries and a bottle of Pinot Noir from South Africa.

an after picnic nap

Now it is time for a nap.

Felixstowe to Orford

pedaling from Felixstowe to Orford



Alderton

Where to start? More pedaling, plus a ferry ride, pubs, pints, and sight seeing.

the Felixstowe Ferry



riding the Ferry















After coffee and a cheese and onion pastie, we set off on the bicycles. We rode along Felixstowe's Victorian seaside through a golf course to the ferry to Bawdsy. We rode along one lane roads through small villages such as Alderton, Hollesley and Chillesford, pastures and woods.

We stopped for lunch and a pint at The Shepherd and Dog in Hollesley. The food and the ale were good and the bar keeper was friendly.

a pint of Woodforde's bitter along the way

mailing some post cards

Next stop was Boyton. When I was growing up, my Nana and Grandad ran the Boyton Bell. Like many village pubs, it closed a number of years ago. Today, it was hardly recognizable, since it has been renovated into a residence.

the former Boyton Bell



St. Bartholomew





Orford Castle


Orford is smaller town than Felixstowe. It grew up around a 12th century royal castle, which is an English Heritage site. Orford was once a busy seaport, but the continual growth from the shingle spit across the river Ore has caused a decline in commercial trade. Today, The castle and the old church loom large over the landscape and a number of shipwrecks are entombed in the shifting sandbanks off the shore.

our room in The King's Hea

The King's Head, Orford

We stayed at The King's Head Inn, a small pub with accommodations. It is located in the center of town. It is a nice place to stay.

The Jolly Sailor

We had dinner and pints at the Jolly Sailor. It has a large garden overlooking the ness. We had a couple of pints in the garden and went inside for dinner. I had a delicious meal of linguine with a gruyere cream sauce, fresh wild mushrooms, crouquette (or zucchini) and rocket greens (which remind me of arugula).

After dinner, we came back to the King's Head for another pint before calling it a day. We were glad to have had dinner at the Jolly Sailor.

Next stop, Woodbridge.

a hurdle (fence) on the walk back to our room